The Tale of the Pheran & a Kanger

The traditional Kanger/Kangdhi and Pheran are the two prized possessions of Kashmiris. There’s a great reason behind their popularity. Perhaps there is some love but there definitely is a great deal of intimacy between them two.

As a combination pheran and kangri, is the perfect way to survive Kashmir’s freezing six-month-long winter. Though both of these are full-fledged economy and indispensable part of the socio-cultural milieu of Kashmir, they play an important role in bearing on the life and activity of Kashmiris in harsh winters.

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Kanger is portable moving heater which runs on burning black charcoal. As the charcoal can get very hot when its burning, ashes on top create a soothing effect. Kanger can be carried anywhere under the pheran, sp that the soft warmth moves along with you always .

The kanger and the pheran complement each other perfectly and some people go on to say that the Kanger is the ornament of a Pheran.  In the absence of reliable electricity, the combo serves as a dependable means to keep the people warm. Both reflect the historical continuity of the Kashmiri culture.

If you don’t know about the pheran then it is a long robe that is a traditional kashmiri dress. Pheran is both worn by men and has a special place in Kashmiri Women’s Closet.

Kanger and Pheran are also believed to have a political background besides their usefulness during cold harsh winter. According to some sources the introduction of kanger, and its necessary auxiliary gown (pheran) was an act of statecraft on the part of the  Mughal emperor Akbar, introduced the garment to tame the brave Kashmiris and make them lazy. But I believe it to be a myth.

We can say that whatever the theory is behind it but really both of the things used together do give a feeling of laziness. But at the same time, these are an integral part of the cultural heritage of Kashmir. The person who invented the kangri must have been a genuis.

British Missionary Tyndale Biscoe in his ‘Kashmir in Sunlight and Shade’ writes about another famous belief: “When the Afghans conquered Kashmir they forced the men to wear the same dress like the women, to be in keeping with their character.” And this narcotic effect of kanger and pheran serves the purpose of rulers quite well even today. 

As much as they are his weaknesses, kanger and pheran are also used by a Kashmiri as weapons. The Security Forces were paranoid about anybody wearing pheran and it was also seen kangris being hurled around during scuffles. It was also believed that kanger has been a weapon of choice in political agitations as well. 

The forces have always been wary of pheran. This is evident from their reaction as the young Kashmiriris wearing a pheran suddenly began being viewed suspiciously. Their apprehensions can be excused since the garment can hide anything – from a kanger to even a gun or a grenade. That’s me adding some spice!

But in truth if people start wearing a khan dress, kashmiri suit, kaftan or a kurta in the harsh winter months, they are not going to survive. So, a pheran is a must wear outfit.

Besides the utilitarian value the importance of kanger, clay bowl weaved into willow wicker, its culture importance can be gauged from the proverb ‘What Laila was on Majnun’s heart (legendary lovers), so is the kanger to a Kashmiri’. Kashmiris cherish the kangri and pheran as a symbol of the culture and tradition of their land.

In short, we can say that during winter everything else can take a backseat while Kashmiris confront the ‘Chilai Kalan’ with the most trusted weapons – kanger and pheran. It is this warmth and comfort which somehow seemed to douse the raging flames of the ‘summer anger’.